Tesla Model 3 in Australia

[David Sowden]

My son got delivery today of a Chinese manufactured M3 SR+ in Brisbane.

Quick look around the car tonight and it looks like much improved paint and panel finish compared to my December 2020 delivered 2021 spec M3P from USA. All panel gaps look very even and the frunk is perfectly flush all around.

There was a Tesla first aid kit in his car. Is this a new thing?

I also noticed the charging screen doesn't have a split for daily and trip levels, appears to recommend charging to 100% all the time.

My neighbours friend received his Fremont SR+ in Dec 2020, and it came with a First Aid kit.
Has your son gone a 200+ km trip and how fast did it take to charge 200 km on a 350 kW Dc charger, as there are horror storeys from Europe with 40kW charging in 0C temperatures?

 

[bay74]

I haven't decided to install a dedicated power solution yet. At the moment I'm just using a 15A GPO with the appropriate pigtail on the supplied travel charger. I have 3 phase at home already so that is a definite option if desired.

I've been using a 15A GPO for over a year and it's fine for my use, providing 6% per hour (3kW into a 50kWh battery). We have never come home very low and had a need to be near-full the next day.

You know you can simply do that with a setting in the car & it will remember if for the location? Seems simpler than stuffing around with the WC rotary switch inside the WC. One of my three wall chargers is at a house with solar. I have the car set to pull 20 amps at that location to match what the solar system generates to save $. If I am in a hurry I simply crank the amps setting on the charge screen in the car.

Perhaps it's automated, with the wall connector in 'slave' mode matching power to variable PV output. Having an automated variable charge power can't easily be done from the car's end, if I understand correctly.

 

[Vostok]

You know you can simply do that with a setting in the car & it will remember if for the location? Seems simpler than stuffing around with the WC rotary switch inside the WC. One of my three wall chargers is at a house with solar. I have the car set to pull 20 amps at that location to match what the solar system generates to save $. If I am in a hurry I simply crank the amps setting on the charge screen in the car.

Um, yeah, that’s what I do. I set it in the car.

What annoys me is that one can’t set the charge rate in the App. I’ve suggested to Tesla they need to add that feature.

 

[Vostok]

Was there a preferred supplier for the ceramic coating in metro Sydney?

I used Opti-Coat in Alexandria, just down the road from the Tesla delivery centre. I was very happy with the service they provided and final result. I also had my windows tinted, although they subcontract that part out to SolarTint in Banksmeadow, and they actually drive your car there to get it done (they did the tinting first) then back to do the coating.

I made sure I checked on their insurance before I let them do that. I was, ahem, very nervous that (knowing my luck) they would total my car after only owning it for 2 days.

 

[Onshore]

Um, yeah, that’s what I do. I set it in the car.

What annoys me is that one can’t set the charge rate in the App. I’ve suggested to Tesla they need to add that feature.

I imagine this might be intentional. They may not want this done from a remote location when not near the car.

For example, increasing the amps, could trip the main breaker, cutting all power to the residence.

Scenario: single phase dwelling, 63A total capacity. Ac running, pool pumps etc.
You have the car charging at say 16A

If you remotely raise the car charging to 32A you could black out the home unknowingly.

 

[EcoCloudIT]

I imagine this might be intentional. They may not want this done from a remote location when not near the car.

For example, increasing the amps, could trip the main breaker, cutting all power to the residence.

Scenario: single phase dwelling, 63A total capacity. Ac running, pool pumps etc.
You have the car charging at say 16A

If you remotely raise the car charging to 32A you could black out the home unknowingly.

I have single phase and charge the car at 32amps in the middle of summer with air-con running, dish washer running, cloths washing running etc, never had a trip issue, never....what dinosaur of an air-con unit are you running?

@Vostok is right and I too have asked for this ability many a time however it’s fallen on deaf ears I guess....maybe fart sounds are vastly more important?

 

[Vostok]

I imagine this might be intentional. They may not want this done from a remote location when not near the car.

For example, increasing the amps, could trip the main breaker, cutting all power to the residence.

Scenario: single phase dwelling, 63A total capacity. Ac running, pool pumps etc.
You have the car charging at say 16A

If you remotely raise the car charging to 32A you could black out the home unknowingly.

But how is that different to setting your car to charge at 32A, setting the schedule to start charging at 9pm, then catching a train into the city to attend a show? Same thing could happen, and you’re nowhere near the car.

Doesn’t seem a plausible reason to me. Also if house circuits are properly dimensioned and protected then the total possible house load should not exceed the rating of the main breaker.

 

[meloccom]

Awesome tips on the accessories there, thanks for that!

I haven't decided to install a dedicated power solution yet. At the moment I'm just using a 15A GPO with the appropriate pigtail on the supplied travel charger. I have 3 phase at home already so that is a definite option if desired.

Was there a preferred supplier for the ceramic coating in metro Sydney?

The centre console is no longer piano black, but a muted silver so should be more practical. I will get more time with the car when I'm no longer confined to the house due to recent general anaesthetic. Knee is sore but ibuprofen/paracetamol is keeping it much more tolerable.

Also one last thing, what are people doing for all-weather floor mats on the RHD vehicles? I see many options for LHD. I don't want to be too picky but something that doesn't smell too Industrial would be great. It's mainly to protect the floor somewhat from wet dog.

For Ceramic coating and Paint Protection Film I use David at Automotive Paint Protection Sydney | Paint Protection Film Sydney They are located in Clyde, not far from the railway station so it’s easy to drop off in the morning and catch the train into the city.
He has been detailing and protecting Tesla’s since Tesla opened in Australia. He put PPF and Opticoat on my 2014 Model S when it was new and it still looks very good.
I have been talking to him recently about replacing some of the PPF and applying a replacement for Opticoat now that it’s 6 years old and has lost some of its effectiveness.
Before I do this, however I have to get a scratch fixed on the left rear door where someone threw open their door so I’m looking for a good auto painter.

 

[Flatbat]

I somehow stumbled across this Mickey Mouse instrument cluster add on while looking for a diesel oil pressure gauge.
It is not for me, but very interesting nonetheless. By Topfit ex Amazon.

 

[atj777]

I had a nasty experience with my Model 3 on the weekend.

I stopped for a short break on the side of the road and took my phone with me. The car autolocked as it should. When I came back I was able to get into the car fine (phone is a key) but when I tried to shift into drive it told me I needed the RFID key. I was already running the Telsa app on my phone. I shut down the app and restarted it but to no avail. The only way I could get going again was putting the RFID key on the console.

Now, I always have the RFID key with me, but what if I hadn't?

 

[cafz]

I stopped for a short break on the side of the road and took my phone with me. The car autolocked as it should. When I came back I was able to get into the car fine (phone is a key) but when I tried to shift into drive it told me I needed the RFID key. I was already running the Telsa app on my phone. I shut down the app and restarted it but to no avail. The only way I could get going again was putting the RFID key on the console.

When that happens, turn Bluetooth off and then on again on the phone (or put it into airplane mode then out again). It's something to do with the Bluetooth stack on the phone tangling itself in knots, restarting the app doesn't help.

Now, I always have the RFID key with me, but what if I hadn't?

If you have mobile reception, you can always use the "Start" function in the "Controls" section of the app. I've done that for my wife from the other side of town when she swapped into the driver's seat and drove off without any key...

 

[PC__LoadLetter]

Standard mobile app troubleshooting. The usual sequence

* Close and reopen the app (which you did)
* Disable/Re-enable Bluetooth on the phone
* Close app/Power off the phone & reboot/Reopen App
* Delete & re-install app
* Wipe and reinstall everything on the phone
* Take phone to a repair place & see if they can do anything
* Buy a new phone

One of these will fix the issue.

EDIT: And I love cafz's suggestion of using the start button in-app.

 

[erosco]

I had a nasty experience with my Model 3 on the weekend.

I stopped for a short break on the side of the road and took my phone with me. The car autolocked as it should. When I came back I was able to get into the car fine (phone is a key) but when I tried to shift into drive it told me I needed the RFID key. I was already running the Telsa app on my phone. I shut down the app and restarted it but to no avail. The only way I could get going again was putting the RFID key on the console.

Now, I always have the RFID key with me, but what if I hadn't?

If your phone has NFC (for like google payments) you can use it as a card. I have lots of trouble with my phone registering so when I get your situation, I just place my phone behind the cup holders and it's registered (same way the key card is)!

You can also hold your phone where you put the key card on the driver pillar to unlock/lock.. I tend to do this as it's more reliable than expecting bluetooth to work properly on my phone.

- Give it a try..

 

[atj777]

You can also hold your phone where you put the key card on the driver pillar to unlock/lock.. I tend to do this as it's more reliable than expecting bluetooth to work properly on my phone.

That is basically what I did - but it worked because I keep the RFID key in my phone wallet.

This is the first time in 12 months that I've had to use the RFID key to drive. Sure, sometimes I have to start the app on the phone to drive but it has always worked up until now. Probably 50% of the time (perhaps more) I don't even need to be running the app to drive.

 

[EcoCloudIT]

I had a nasty experience with my Model 3 on the weekend.

I stopped for a short break on the side of the road and took my phone with me. The car autolocked as it should. When I came back I was able to get into the car fine (phone is a key) but when I tried to shift into drive it told me I needed the RFID key. I was already running the Telsa app on my phone. I shut down the app and restarted it but to no avail. The only way I could get going again was putting the RFID key on the console.

Now, I always have the RFID key with me, but what if I hadn't?

Turn your bluetooth off on the phone and back on again....usually works for me and has only happened a couple of times tbh.

 

[Vostok]

Can a Tesla RFID key be added to the Apple Wallet on iOS? If so, how? I have a ChargePoint RFID in my Apple wallet.

 

[Hairyman]

Electric cars can now "plug and charge" on all Tritium 50kW chargers

The system now recognises the car like the way a supercharger does. No need for RFID etc apparently.

 

[bay74]

Sheesh. My service appointment booked on 1 Feb has been delayed again, to mid-April. It's to replace the rear glass. Apparently they can't get it delivered because of COVID.

I'm still driving it because the crack's along the bottom of the rear glass only and doesn't appear to have grown, but imagine if it were not drivable. Months without the vehicle just for a glass replacement would be terrible service.

Glass should always be in-stock relatively locally (in my opinion).

Not happy Jan.

 

[Ross1]

Get Karen to see the Manager, Jan.

 

[EcoCloudIT]

Sheesh. My service appointment booked on 1 Feb has been delayed again, to mid-April. It's to replace the rear glass. Apparently they can't get it delivered because of COVID.

I'm still driving it because the crack's along the bottom of the rear glass only and doesn't appear to have grown, but imagine if it were not drivable. Months without the vehicle just for a glass replacement would be terrible service.

Glass should always be in-stock relatively locally (in my opinion).

Not happy Jan.

absoluely, especially since nobody else can supply it.....Jan’s not the only one not happy.....