Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately butt dynos are notoriously unreliable
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Unfortunately butt dynos are notoriously unreliable
Yea there’s no way someone is gonna “feel” a 5% difference in power...Unfortunately butt dynos are notoriously unreliable
All my sensors are working fine, and creep is off, but there is for sure some combo of actions that I'm not going to try and replicate that allow the door to be opened and me get out of the car and it not enable park. I'm just in the habit of pressing the button now.Not sure how we ended up on this topic...but the Rollaway Protection not working properly presents a critical safety issue, so I thought I would chime in. The way it is supposed to work is if at least 2 out of 3 of the following are conditions are met, it should extremely quickly go to Park from Drive. It should not require that Hold mode be engaged for the Rollaway Protection to work, and it should work ok even if Creep mode is on (I'm a Creeper):
At least 2 out of 3 of these conditions:
1) Seat belt undone
2) Driver Door open
3) Weight removed from driver seat.
I've found that it pretty reliably does this, though there is a defeat if you nail the accelerator quickly enough, concurrent with the satisfaction of the rollaway conditions. It's entirely possible these rollaway protections won't work either if the car is in motion when these conditions are satisfied (so if you try to bail out with the car in motion, or the car is already starting to roll when the conditions are initially met, it might not engage the parking brake). This means that it's possible that if you're in Creep mode, or on a hill, and are in the (bad) habit of removing your foot from the brake before opening the driver's door, you could defeat the protection.
If you're finding that it's not working this way, and not reliably parking the car automatically when the car is stationary and the 2 of the 3 conditions are met, I would strongly recommend having the various sensors checked out, or at least double checking yourself the status of these sensors. The three failures could be:
1) Door open sensor is stuck in the "door closed" position. (This would usually present some other undesirable symptoms I think: specifically the display would not turn off when you exit the vehicle, so an undetected failure is unlikely.)
2) Seat belt sensor is stuck in the "seat belt on" position.
3) Driver weight sensor is stuck in the "seat weighted" position.
To check them, I would conduct the following tests:
1) Does the car detect when your driver's door is open? (by dinging incessantly when in drive with the door open)
2) Does the car detect when your seat belt is not on? (with an icon on the display and annoying chiming when driving above a certain speed)
3) Hardest to test - does your seat weight detector detect when weight is removed from the seat? The way to test this one is to take your seat belt off (display should then show your seat belt is off with an icon above the speedometer), then to lift your butt from the seat while still in the car (basically have to have the strength to brace your weight in various places, using the dead pedal, and the seat back, and center console (lightly!) ) and make sure that seat belt icon turns off.
Left hand pane of display, bottom section, swipe from left to right to get to leftmost "card." You can then scroll up and down on this card (by swiping) to access the various trip meters. You can rename the two main permanent trip meters - many people rename the bottommost one "Lifetime - Do Not Reset". Note that NONE of the meters measure ANY energy consumption when the car is in Park (this turns out to be important and a common point of confusion, and should be seared in your memory).
I recommend getting Teslafi. This way you can revisit old journey stats any time you like.Where does everyone get these statistics from? I see lots of people talking about lifetime averages and things like that, but I’m not sure where to find this info. I’m new to the family, so still learning about this machine
Yea there’s no way someone is gonna “feel” a 5% difference in power...
Nonsense. You should be able to feel a 40+hp increase.
Your car has 800 hp?! I missed that config when ordering
I'm going to guess 170kW for the SR+ as max Supercharging speed. 250kW * (240*209)/(310*234) = 173kW (very approximate)
I really doubt they will do 150kW. 150kW is the max at Supercharger V2 now and you actually get 145kW or so on an LR.
Plus they want to differentiate both cars so if they change anything it will be 120kW, but let's see
would set my bets on 120kW , if anything, but who knows.
Do you still think most people will feel a 5% increase?It's an "off the menu" option...
I can’t agree more. Teslafi is awesome and I’m going to be sharing more and more of my own experience with it!I recommend getting Teslafi. This way you can revisit old journey stats any time you like.
Do you know if using Teslafi will give you historical stats before it was linked? Are there logs it’s able to pull to get that info or is it all real-time data it’s pulling?I can’t agree more. Teslafi is awesome and I’m going to be sharing more and more of my own experience with it!
Don't think it's possible.Do you know if using Teslafi will give you historical stats before it was linked? Are there logs it’s able to pull to get that info or is it all real-time data it’s pulling?
That is odd, let's wait and see the real live charging sessions.
It seems like it already started, but Tesla pulled parts of it back.Do we know when the update is going to start for SR+?
Do you know if using Teslafi will give you historical stats before it was linked? Are there logs it’s able to pull to get that info or is it all real-time data it’s pulling?
Do we know when the update is going to start for SR+?
V2 doesn't offer more than 145kW anyways, I wonder what the charge curve will be on SR and SR